Text By Gennady Oreshkin
Amulets – objects believed to possess magical properties – have been part of human culture since time immemorial. From the evil eye charms of the Mediterranean to the jade pendants of Asia, these talismans promised to shield their owners from harm or attract good fortune. When Christianity swept across Europe, the cross and rosary beads absorbed these mystical functions, though with theological justifications rather than superstitious ones. Yet the human desire for protective trinkets never disappeared. When trade routes to Asia expanded in the 18th century, exotic amulets captivated European imaginations. Today’s fine jewellers continue that fascination, creating luxurious modern talismans that blend ancient symbolism with contemporary design.
In Greater China, these spiritual artefacts never really left. Every year, high jewellery brands integrate amulets into their designs. Chow Tai Fook, one of the region’s most prominent jewellers, recently revealed an entire collection dedicated to the character 福, which signifies fortune and prosperity, and the colour red, which symbolises luck, joy and vitality. The Rouge line includes bangles, rings, necklaces, earrings and charms composed of variations of diamonds, red enamel and Chow Tai Fook’s signature retina-searing 18k yellow gold. And, of course, no conversation about auspicious jewellery is complete without Qeelin. The maison’s entire oeuvre rests on mythological symbolism. Gourd, a fruit which is thought to bring luck, prosperity and longevity, is the protagonist of Qeelin’s most popular line, Wulu. Its silhouette appears on a white gold parure with astonishingly detailed miniatures depicting flowers of Imperial Gardens inlaid with sapphires, amethysts and akoya pearls. The brand also pairs the fruit with a lotus (a symbol of purity and resilience) on an elegant cuff set with diamonds and lavender jade.
Independent jewellers, too, are partial towards Chinese symbolism in their creations. Hong Kong jewellery brand K. Sze & Sons, that’s been operating for more than a century, has a vast collection of such bejewelled amulets. One example is a pair of jadeite earrings with the Chinese character 囍 (which stands for joy and happiness) carved into them. These are also adorned with diamonds and tsavorites.
Coins are another popular prosperity symbol used in jewellery. Last year, Hong Kong-based jewellery designer Chantel Shafie launched her Eternal Dragon collection of medallion necklaces. Created in collaboration with a local feng shui master and a master dragon carver, these pieces represent the harmony between the earth and heaven thanks to their circular shapes and square orifices at the centre. The medallions are available in a variety of stones, each with a unique prescribed spiritual quality: mother of pearl for emotional balance, onyx for grounding, jade for prosperity, red jasper for stability, turquoise for protection and lapis lazuli for wisdom and intuition.
K.S. Sze & Sons also often incorporates coin motifs into its designs. Its Money Jangle Bangle takes inspiration from the Byzantine Empire. Here, one coin is engraved with the images of Constans II and Constantine IV, another features Constantine VII, and the next bears a protection spell inscribed in Arabic.
While the Byzantine Empire no longer exists, its unique culture continues to inspire jewellers to this day. Perhaps, the most auspicious gift the civilisation left to the realm of contemporary decorative art is the evil eye (aka the nazar amulet), thought to have the power to ward off curses and hexes, which originated from the ancient Mesopotamian city of Tell Brak but was popularised by the Empire. Turkish brand Begüm Khan has an expansive oeuvre of such amulets, including cuffs, necklaces and earrings all studded in precious stones. Los-Angeles-based Sydney Evan also revisits the motif in her minimalist creations. Her beaded bracelets in onyx, garnet , aquaprase, aquamarine and lapis lazuli with evil eye charms have become cult favourites. Perhaps, the most ingenious use of this sacral symbol can be attributed to Schiaparelli. In line with the maison’s surrealist house codes, it creates lifelike eye earrings with coloured enamel, extravagant (and somewhat unsettling) gold bangles and rings with eyes that appear to gaze into the soul. Not one evil spirit in its healthy mind would dare come near these. Magpies, though? Not so sure.
Another popular auspicious symbol is the scarab. Though less common in Greater China, it is widely celebrated across the Middle East and Europe as a symbol of rebirth and resurrection. Scarab jewellery dates to ancient Egypt and resurfaced during the Victorian era – around the same time archaeologists began actively unearthing pharaohs’ tombs. Dutch designer Bibi Van Der Velden is perhaps the most authoritative voice in the world of contemporary scarab jewellery. She uses real scarab wings in all their iridescent beauty to create mind-blowing pieces. Her Bunch earring, for example, features 20 overlapping wings attached to an 18k yellow gold and sterling silver “head” set with diamonds and tsavorites. The Scarab Eternity necklace takes this insectile artistry to new heights, with 16 beetles either set with real wings or paved in sapphires, amethysts and tsavorites.
Scarabs continue to inspire Lorenz Bäumer — “the last independent jeweller on Place Vendôme” and the man behind Guerlain’s famed Le Secret de la Reine. Some of his most technically impressive artworks are the Scarab brooches. Commanding in their size and awe-inspiring in their craftsmanship, these jewels double as perfume dispensers. They were apparently born out of Bäumer’s desire to challenge the idea that perfume belongs on the skin. Each brooch has functional wings that close and open to reveal a metal “sponge,” into which scent can be poured to then slowly released back into the air. Though the brooches do not employ real scarab wings, they’re no less magnificent. The Scarab Rhinoceros, for example, features a 25.62-carat emerald topped with a 1.67-carat opal, its wings paved with sapphires, diamonds and tourmalines.
Whether you’re a true believer in the mystical properties of talismans or simply appreciate them as decorative trinkets, these ancient symbols — from the Egyptian scarab to the evil eye — carry centuries of cultural significance that elevate them beyond mere accessories. They may not deflect the jealous glances they were designed to ward off, but they’ll certainly draw admiring ones instead.