English version

蘋果日報, 2014年4月9日  

Big Spender：隱秘珠寶店　獨具匠心香港情

今日金舖成行成市，數量比便利店多好幾倍。三、四十年代的香港，未引入外資珠寶店，就只有數間因內戰由大陸轉移到香港發展的珠寶公司，從沒有明星代言、每年只趁聖誕節減價酬賓時賣一次廣告的金星珠寶就是其中一間，雖然作風低調，卻憑口碑在1963年被置地選中，在當時新落成的文華酒店（文華東方酒店原名）開店，成為酒店唯一一間珠寶店。多年來，吸引不少中外政要名人與本地富豪光顧，包括已故的戴安娜王妃、「雲南王」龍雲、大提琴家馬友友、利孝和夫人、霍英東家族、包玉剛家族、董浩雲家族、恒生銀行創辦人之一林炳炎家族、周錫年家族和王仁曼等。「我們做的都是回頭客，很多更是幾代都幫襯我們。」在競爭激烈的珠寶行業，有本事令客人再光顧，靠的不但是非凡的手藝，最重要是一份香港情。

金星珠寶1949年在中環中建大廈開業，今年正值慶祝開店90周年。在珠寶店工作了33年的經理張孝和解釋，他們是把上海開店的25年都計了進去，「1923年，施剛巽先生與家父在上海開設『原豐珠寶』，後來共產黨上場開始批鬥富戶，原豐被迫結業。施先生一家逃到香港，而我就在八十年代鄧小平開放大陸才來香港投靠他。」他說，施剛巽從未忘記原豐，公司至今仍口傳十字經營格言「原本存忠信，豐享大有年」，他更把它作為珠寶業行內使用的數字暗號，例如每個字代表一個數字，挑選當中幾個便組成一個銀碼，只有員工明白，客人未必聽得懂，便於議價時用上。

他說四、五十年代，品牌在行內已具名氣，因為施剛巽決定不賣常規廣告，避免將無謂開支轉嫁消費者，最後贏得口碑，「1963年文華酒店要挑選本地七間售賣不同貨品的商店進駐酒店，珠寶這一行就找了我們。」張孝和說當時金星就在現時Salvatore Ferragamo的位置，共兩層。開幕日更請來熟客利孝和夫人到場剪綵，「早兩年，我們開了新的showroom又再請她來做嘉賓。」他說老闆是行業先驅，開創在聖誕前後大減價時於報紙登廣告，而當時買珠寶最流行議價，他就提出不二價，可惜實施期間，客人的反對聲音大，他才取消。

戴妃訪港　買金耳環即戴

在珠寶商會修讀珠寶設計畢業後就加入金星、由學徒做起的伍慧蘭，做了37年，是很多客人的御用設計師，包括著名芭蕾舞蹈家王仁曼。「客人其實好怕跟人撞款，尤其是要參加宴會，佩戴款式相近的會很尷尬。」所以出自她手的全部設計圖，只要一起貨她就丟棄，避免洩露設計。她說成為名人的設計師最緊要口密，就連客人的朋友、家人，甚至熟客想抄款訂做，她都一律以「你親自問問她」做標準答案。其次，還要細心。她知道很多客人在市面上找不到合心意首飾盒，於是她亦提供首飾盒訂做服務，根據客人的喜好，度身訂做不同分層及儲存小格。

1989年戴妃訪港期間，她的服裝師曾為她到金星購買耳環。

多年來，她處理的設計多不勝數，隨着客人年輕化，她接到的任務亦趨向多元化，例如曾有客人叫她用木頭和塑膠做飾物，設計方面沒問題，但找非一般飾物常用物料倒是困難重重，她最後也成功做出令客人滿意的製成品。她說，縱然幫襯公司的客人大部份都是名門望族，但在她眼中，客人都跟一般人無分別，「她們都是walk in的，毋須落閘招呼。」當中很多客人更與他們成為朋友，而且會請他們看自己的演出，王仁曼如是，大提琴家馬友友亦如是，不過那次邀請發生在她一位已退休的同事身上。馬友友當年下榻文華酒店，經朋友介紹到金星購物，為了答謝殷勤招待，於是請店員欣賞他的演出。可是那店員因不懂音樂缺席，翌日馬友友失落地說他當晚的演出全場爆滿，只有演奏廳正中央有兩張空凳。另一件她印象深刻的事，一定是戴安娜王妃在香港訪問期間，出席活動時戴上金星所做的金耳環，原來伍慧蘭目擊整個過程，「當日來的根本不是戴妃，是她的服裝設計師而已。」她記得那位外國人爽快地選了80年代非常流行的鈕扣款式，只是付錢時才透露原來是為王妃置裝。

現在金星很多客人已是十幾二十歲的第三代。相比他們的祖母、媽媽喜歡大件搶眼的珍珠鑽石，第三代的年輕人偏好幼細的鑽石手鏈、耳環，像利孝和夫人那一輩，她們喜歡大顆的珍珠，簡單設計就已經大方且搶眼，而且適合任何打扮、場合，不像鑽石考究切割技術。但年輕一輩喜歡歐美潮流，有時更會拿着《Vogue》要他們訂做近似款式。

創意主管伍慧蘭在金星工作了三十多個年頭，見盡本港至國際名人，她說只要專業和口密就能令客人滿意。

粉紅寶石鑽石蝴蝶別針$80,000

在18K黃金上鑲上9.3卡粉紅寶石和3.34卡白鑽石。

18K白金鑲白鑽金鑽別針$430,000

別針由共重3.88卡的金鑽白鑽組成。

粉紅寶石梨形鑽石花戒指$120,000

戒指用上6.63卡粉紅寶石、1.66卡梨形鑽石和共重80份圓形鑽石組合而成。

18K白金鑲鑽長鏈連翡翠吊墜別針兩用$300,000

共鑲有8卡鑽石、6.71卡藍寶石和5顆翡翠。

18K黃金鑲金鑽戒指吊墜兩用 $110,000

知道客人喜歡一物二用，設計師於是把4.92卡金鑽和0.31卡鑽石做成可以作戒指或吊墜兩用的飾物。

18K白金鑲祖母綠白鑽戒指 $1,400,000

為了突出祖母綠的顏色，設計師用了2.03卡的白鑽來配襯10.34卡的祖母綠。

澳寶石鑽戒 $330,000

稀有三層漸變色的澳寶石，配上1.54卡的白鑽，十分矜貴。

香港製造　珠光寶氣

金星在香港自設珠寶工場，共有約20名工匠，本着只要客人對訂做的首飾不滿意，就免費改到客人滿意為止。

1.客人先與設計師定好首飾設計圖。

2.工匠會以人手把鑽石鑲到飾物上。

3.在半製成品階段，會先交到客人手上，看看是否需要進行改動。

4.一件首飾最少花上三星期才完成。

名人世家　情傾低調名店

周啟邦夫人： 「我家姑與珠寶店稔熟。」

周啟邦夫人說自己喜歡訂做首飾，多年來經常幫襯金星，因為家姑劉慶桂與珠寶店的創辦人施剛巽稔熟，「有時與奶奶行街，經過金星舖頭，她都會走進去逛逛。」對白鑽、紅鑽和藍鑽最情有獨鍾的她，最喜歡以它們來做頸鏈，認為金星的設計典雅耐看，而且手工精細。以往出席不同場合，她會先選好首飾，再去訂製一套合襯的服裝。

周啟邦夫人是金星熟客，最愛用白鑽訂製珠寶。

王仁曼： 「施老先生教我買寶石不是睇大小，應該重質不重量。」

因為王仁曼的父親與施剛巽都是祖籍上海，她有記憶以來，兩位長輩就是好朋友。她說施世伯在她年紀小的時候，就教導她選擇寶石不是睇大小，而應該重質不重量，又傳授揀寶石的秘訣予她，她們一家三代都從金星購買飾品。多年來都交由在公司服務37年的創意主管伍慧蘭負責。她最滿意的其中一件，是由媽媽傳下來的一雙玉髮夾改造而成的一對耳環。「1973年，世界著名芭蕾舞蹈家Dame Margot Fonteyn（瑪歌·芳婷）來港，我也帶她到金星買首飾。」

英國國寶級芭蕾舞蹈家瑪歌·芳婷（右）1973年來港，王仁曼（左）推介她光顧金星。

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Apple Daily - April 9, 2014

Big Spender: The Hidden Jewel of Hong Kong – An Exquisite, Unique Jewelry Boutique

Today, streets teeming with gold jewelry stores overwhelmingly outnumber convenience stores. However, in the 1930s and 1940s, Hong Kong had not yet experienced the influx of foreign jewelry brands, leaving only a few that had relocated from mainland China due to the civil war. Among these, K.S. Sze & Sons stood out with its low-key approach, eschewing celebrity endorsements and running just a single advertisement annually for the Christmas sale. In 1963, its reputation for excellence attracted Hongkong Land, which selected it to open a store in the newly completed Mandarin Hotel (originally named Mandarin Oriental Hotel), making it the hotel's sole jewelry boutique. Over the years, it has drawn many local tycoons and international figures, including Princess Diana, Lung Yun (the "King of Yunnan"), cellist Yo-Yo Ma, Mrs. Christina Lee, the families of Henry Fok Ying-tung, Sir Yue-kong Pao, Tung Chao-yun, co-founder of Hang Seng Bank Lam Bing-yim, Sir Chau Sik-nin, and Jean M. Wong. "Our business thrives on returning customers, many of whom have been with us for generations," a testament to the compelling allure of their craftsmanship and a unique Hong Kong sentiment.

K.S. Sze & Sons was established in 1949 at the Central Building in Central and is celebrating its 90th anniversary this year. The boutique counts its 25 years of operation in Shanghai towards this milestone. "In 1923, Mr. K.S. Sze and my father opened 'Yuan Tong Jewelry' in Shanghai. But with the rise of the Communist Party, which began targeting the wealthy, Yuan Tong was forced to close. Mr. Sze and his family fled to Hong Kong, and it wasn't until the economic reforms of the 1980s under Deng Xiaoping that I moved to Hong Kong to join him," explained manager Howard Cheung, who has been in the business for 33 years. K.S. Sze never forgot Yuan Tong, and the company still upholds the 10-character business motto passed down orally: "If you remain faithful, you will have a prosperous future." He even used it as a numerical code in the jewelry industry, where each character represents a number used to form a price code, known only to employees, useful during price negotiations.

He said that the brand had already gained fame by the 1940s and 1950s, largely because K.S. Sze decided against conventional advertising to avoid passing unnecessary costs onto consumers, eventually winning over customers through word of mouth instead. "In 1963, when the Mandarin Hotel was selecting local shops selling various merchandise to be housed within its premises, our jewelry store was selected."  Howard Cheung recalls that K.S.Sze & Sons initially occupied the current Salvatore Ferragamo site, spreading over two floors. Mrs Christina Lee was invited to officiate the ribbon-cutting ceremony. "We invited her again as our guest of honor at the opening of our showroom two years ago." According to Chang, their boss initiated pioneering strategies such as advertising major discounts in newspapers around Christmas, but the practice of non-negotiable pricing was short-lived due to customer resistance.

Princess Diana visits Hong Kong and wears gold earrings purchased at the boutique

After graduating from a course in jewelry design at the Hong Kong Jewelry Manufacturers' Association, Irene Ng joined K.S. Sze & Sons as an apprentice. Over 37 years, she became the go-to designer for many clients, including renowned ballerina Jean M. Wong. "Clients are wary of wearing the same design as others, especially at functions where spotting similar styles can be embarrassing," she explains. Ng ensures exclusivity by discarding all her design sketches once a piece is sold. She maintains a strict discretion policy as a designer to celebrities, typically advising inquirers, including the jewelry owner’s friends, family or even other regular customers, "You should ask her yourself" when asked to replicate a design. Moreover, attention to detail is crucial. Understanding that many clients struggle to find jewelry boxes they like, Ng also offers a custom-made jewelry box service, creating bespoke compartments and storage sections tailored to each client's preferences.

Over the years, Ng has designed countless pieces. With clients becoming younger, she has also received requests for more variety. For example, a client requested jewelry made from wood and plastic - a challenge given these materials aren't commonly used in fine jewelry. Nevertheless, she succeeded in producing a piece that the client was happy with. Ng treats all her clients, even though most of them are from renowned families, with the same respect, noting, "They all walk in without us needing to close the store for them." Many have become friends, inviting her to performances like those of Jean M. Wong and cellist Yo-Yo Ma.  Ma had stayed at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel and, after being introduced to K.S. Sze & Sons by a friend and made a purchase, invited an employee to his concert as a thank-you for the service. Unfortunately, the employee (who has since retired) was not musically inclined and did not attend the performance, leaving Ma to comment sadly the following day that there were two empty seats at the center, even though the venue was full. Another memorable experience for Ng was witnessing Princess Diana wearing a pair of gold earrings made by K.S. Sze & Sons during an event in Hong Kong. "She didn’t come to our boutique that day; it was her fashion designer. " She remembered the foreigner quickly choosing the button earrings that were very popular in the 1980s and only revealed that they were for the Princess when he paid.

Today, K.S. Sze & Sons' clientele includes many third-generation patrons in their teens and twenties. Unlike their grandmothers or mothers, these young clients prefer more delicate diamond bracelets and earrings. Like Christina Lee, the older generation appreciated the grandeur of substantial pearls, with their simplicity offering versatility for all occasions, unlike the intricate cuts required for diamonds. However, the younger generation tends to follow European and American trends, sometimes bringing in copies of designs from magazines like "Vogue" for custom orders.

High society drawn to luxurious, yet low-key boutique

Mrs. Brenda Chau: "My mother-in-law and the jewelry boutique share a close connection."

Mrs. Brenda Chau expresses a fondness for bespoke jewelry and frequently visits K.S. Sze & Sons, drawing closer to the boutique through her mother-in-law, Ida Chau's longstanding relationship with the founder, K.S. Sze. "Sometimes, while shopping with my mother-in-law, she would stop by K.S. Sze & Sons to browse," she recalls. Mrs. Chau has a particular affection for white diamonds, rubies, and sapphires, especially for adorning necklaces. She appreciates K.S. Sze's designs for their elegance, timelessness, and meticulous craftsmanship, often selecting her jewelry first for any event before commissioning outfits to match.

Jean M. Wong: "Mr. Sze taught me to value quality over size when buying gems."

Jean M. Wong, whose father and K.S. Sze were both originally from Shanghai and good friends, recalls Uncle Sze's advice from her youth on choosing gemstones for their quality rather than size, along with other tips for selecting precious stones. Spanning three generations, her family has purchased jewelry from K.S. Sze & Sons, with the creative direction of Irene Ng, who has served the company for 37 years. One of Ms. Wong's most cherished pieces is a pair of earrings repurposed from her mother's jade hairpins. "When the world-renowned ballerina Dame Margot Fonteyn visited Hong Kong in 1973, I took her to K.S. Sze & Sons to buy jewelry."

Exquisite jewelry crafted in Hong Kong

K.S. Sze & Sons operates its own jewelry workshop in Hong Kong, employing around 20 skilled craftsmen. Their principle is to ensure complete client satisfaction - if the client is not fully satisfied with the bespoke jewelry, they will redo it for free until the client is completely satisfied.

1. Clients first work closely with the designer to finalize the jewelry design sketches.
2. Craftsmen then meticulously hand-set the diamonds onto the jewelry pieces.
3. The semi-finished pieces are presented to the clients for potential modifications before completion.
4. It takes a minimum of three weeks to craft each unique jewelry piece.

Photo captions:

• Founder K.S. Sze had close friendships with many business magnates, whose wives and children became loyal customers of K.S. Sze & Sons.
• During Princess Diana's visit to Hong Kong in 1989, her fashion stylist purchased earrings from K.S. Sze & Sons for her.
• Irene Ng, the creative director, has worked at K.S. Sze & Sons for over 30 years, serving countless local and international celebrities with her professionalism and discretion.
• Pink Sapphire and Diamond Butterfly Brooch, set in 18K yellow gold with 9.3 carats of pink sapphires and 3.34 carats of white diamonds, $80,000.
• 18K White Gold Diamond Brooch composed of 3.88 carats of yellow diamonds and white diamonds, $430,000.
• Pink Sapphire and Pear-shaped Diamond Floral Ring, featuring 6.63 carats of pink sapphires, 1.66 carats of pear-shaped diamonds, and .80 carat of round diamonds, $120,000.
• 18K White Gold Diamond Dual-Use Chain Necklace with Jadeite Pendant Brooch, $300,000. Adorned with 8 carats of diamonds, 6.71 carats of blue sapphires, and five jadeite pieces.
• 18K Yellow Gold and Yellow Diamond Dual-Use Ring and Pendant, $110,000. Knowing clients like versatility, the designer set 4.92 carats of yellow diamonds and 0.31 carats of white diamonds in this piece, which can be worn as a ring or a pendant.
• 18K White Gold Emerald and Diamond Ring, $1,400,000. To highlight the emerald's color, 2.03 carats of white diamonds complement the 10.34-carat central emerald.
• Opal Diamond Ring, $330,000. A rare three-layered opal in gradating colors set with 1.54 carats of white diamonds, exuding exclusive luxury.
• Mrs. Brenda Chau, a longstanding patron of K.S. Sze & Sons, has a preference for bespoke jewelry crafted with white diamonds.
• In 1973, the British national treasure and ballerina Dame Margot Fonteyn (right) visited Hong Kong, with Jean M. Wong (left) recommending K.S. Sze & Sons to her.